5 Tips for Choosing a Coat for your Dog

Doggy jackets come in as many different materials as human jackets do. They can be fleece, windbreakers, wool or even down filled.

Cockapoo wearing a jacket while sitting in the snow.
Choosing the best coat for your dog.

The weather is getting colder and your dog is not enjoying your walks as much as he used to. It may be time to consider getting a nice warm jacket to make his time outdoors enjoyable again. You could just grab the first one you see, but I have learned through my own experiences as well as those of my clients, that there are a few things to keep in mind when choosing the right jacket. Here are 5 tips for choosing a coat for your dog:

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1) Size

It is important to be sure that the jacket extends from the back of the neck to the tail and fits comfortably around the neck, chest and stomach area. If the jacket is too short it will not stay in place when the dog moves and will allow for an updraft across the back area. Ensure that there is enough room for your pup to move his legs freely when the jacket is done up without having it so loose that the jacket moves around.

2) Style

Although many jackets and sweaters are adorable, they may not suit your dog’s needs at this time. If you have a puppy that is still being trained, you may not want to get a style that you have to put his legs through the sleeves. This is very time consuming and could cause an unfortunate accident to happen. Many dogs don’t enjoy having something put over their heads. You may want to test this on your dog before purchasing this style.

3) Fasteners

Velcro is probably the most popular method of fastening a dog jacket. This is because even the most docile doggo doesn’t want to wait around while you do up buttons and zippers when he could be outside playing. Velcro is quick and easy and is very effective for sizing the jacket. It allows the coat to be adjustable and accommodate your pup’s individual needs. Because it stays in place and rarely comes undone, it is a reliable choice for keeping warm. Another relatively fast method of fastening is snaps. If the jacket has snaps and offers a few sizing choices to conform to your dog’s body size, it is a good choice.

4) Straps

Too many straps or straps that you need an engineering degree to sort out and attach together, will cause your doggo to lose his patience. The fastest and easiest jackets have two straps to do up. One comes around the front of the chest, below the chin; the second goes under the body and does up on one side only. A longer section under the belly means more warmth.

5) Material

Doggy jackets come in as many different materials as human jackets do. They can be fleece, windbreakers, wool or even down filled. Generally, a smaller, thinner or short haired dog will require a warmer fabric. If you have a larger, thick furred breed you may not want to go too heavy as the heat will be a source of discomfort for him.

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Crate Training your Puppy

When you must leave the house, make sure that there will be someone to let the pup out at regular intervals. A puppy is only physically capable of holding their bladder and bowels for a few hours.

Crate training is one of the most effective methods of puppy training. This is because, unless a puppy is desperate, he will not mess where he sleeps. It is important to follow certain steps and procedures to be successful. The goal is to avoid confusion and frustration for both you and your pup.

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Step One: Choosing the proper crate

When choosing a crate, it is imperative that you select the appropriate size specific to your pup’s size. The guideline is to make sure he can stand, sit and turn around comfortably in the crate. Anything larger will set you up for failure as he would be able to poop on one side of the crate and go over to lay down on the other side. This defeats the purpose. You want to create a place where your dog won’t be comfortable sitting in his own his mess. This will encourage him to hold his bladder or bowels as long as possible until you let him out. Take him outside as soon as you let him out of the crate and return him as soon as he has done his business. This will help to associate potty breaks with going outside. Make sure these intervals are brief at first. Increase the time between potty breaks until your dog is able to hold it for a reasonable amount of time.

Step Two: Make the crate your pup’s Special Place

The idea when crate training is to make your pup’s crate her home. You want her to enjoy going in there and to seek it out as a place of calm and comfort. You can provide appropriately sized, safe chew toys to keep her entertained while spending time in the crate. Make sure there is a nice cushion for comfort. Place the crate in a location where your pup can see people and be involved with the family. Feeling isolated is scary and lonely. These are feelings we definitely do not want our pups to experience. This should become a safe haven for your pup. It will be where she runs to if she is feeling overwhelmed; a place to go when you have company or if she’s afraid during a thunderstorm.

Step Three: Leave the crate door open at first.

When introducing the crate and the concept of it being his place, leaving the crate door open indicates that this is not a place where he will always be confined, but a place where he should be free to enjoy whenever he wants to go inside. Once your puppy shows signs of being comfortable inside the crate, close the door for short periods of time so he gets used to the door being closed while resting or playing in there.

Step Four: Reward your pup for entering the crate on her own.

If your pup goes into her crate on her own, offer a reward in the form of a small treat . Use praise to enforce that you are happy with her behavior. This encourages her to go in easily, knowing that it is a positive experience. This will help if you need her to enter before you leave the house. It is not fun for either of you if you are chasing her around the house and having to gently force her into the crate. This causes anxiety and associates the crate with an unpleasant experience; the very thing you are trying to avoid.

Step Five: Never use the crate as a punishment.

Never use the crate as a punishment.

If your pup has an accident on the floor, it is common to react by sending him to a place out of the way so that you can clean up. Your dog will pick up on anger and tone and know that he has done something to upset you. If you send him to his crate when you are reacting to the incident, you are telling him that this is a place to go to when he has been “bad”. This places a negative tone on the crate and he will not want to go to the crate in the future.

Step Six: While you sleep, keep your puppy crated in your room.

If you keep her in your room, she will not have the sensation that she is isolated or that she has been left alone. This will also cause feelings of anxiety where the crate is concerned. The training will then take longer and will be more confusing for her. If she wakes in the night and cries or tries to get out, take her outside to do her business and return her to the crate as soon as she is done. This tells her that she sleeps in the crate at night and only comes out for potty purposes. This is not play time or a time to visit with everyone. It creates a clear schedule for her.

Step Seven: Never leave a puppy for more than 3 or 4 hours

When you must leave the house, make sure that there will be someone to let the pup out at regular intervals. Puppies are only physically capable of holding their bladders and bowels for a few hours. If you leave them for too long, they will not be able to control themselves and will wind up messing the crate and themselves. Once again, this makes the crate an unhappy place that your pup will want to avoid. Returning home or having someone come by to let your pup out will give him a chance to relieve himself. He will be able to stretch his legs and have a few minutes of stimulation in the form of smells and a change of and scenery. He will be happy to return to his crate after a brief visit.

Once your pup has mastered bladder and bowel control, you may want to keep using a crate and increase the size as needed, or upgrade to a pen enclosure . Another option is to keep her gated in a smaller room until it is safe to leave your pup to roam while alone in the house.

Protecting your Dogs Paws from Cold, Salt and Heat

The pads of a dog’s feet are exposed to extreme temperatures and various things left on sidewalks

You look outside and see a beautiful winter wonderland. You get up, put on your coat and boots, put a harness and nice winter coat on your doggo and head out the door. Ten minutes into your walk, your pup is walking on three paws and holding the fourth up in the air. This happens so often. It could be the cold, the paw could be irritated by salt, an ice pellet may be stuck between the toes or an entire chunk of salt might be stuck up in there. Any of these problems will take the fun out of winter for these poor dogs, who, for the most part, love to frolic in the snow. There are a few ways of protecting your dog’s paws from the elements.

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So, what are the options?

Many people choose booties. These are great because they offer protection from all of the elements. They are warm and there is no need to wipe paws when they return home; a process that few dogs enjoy. It may take a while for your dog to get used to the feeling of having something on their feet. Take few practice runs in the house before going outside to help your pup adapt. Initially they may bite at them or refuse to stand or move once they are up, but it will become as routine as putting on a harness for both of you.

120x90 Walkee Paws Logo

It is important to choose well fitting booties with proper tread. I have found that a Velcro strap to adjust tension helps with comfort and keeps the bootie from coming off.

Another option is to choose a paw protection wax which you apply directly to the bottom of your dog’s foot. It coats the pads and puts a layer of protection between your dog’s paws and the elements. If your dog is adamant about not wearing booties, this is a great alternative. It’s best to choose a wax that is made from natural ingredients. Your dog will likely wind up ingesting anything you smear on his paws, so having healthy ingredients will save any other potential problems.

Whatever method you choose for protecting your dog’s paws, you can help maintain the health of his feet by applying a balm to help with dryness or cracking. This can be brought on by walking in all weather, including heat. The pads of a dog’s feet are exposed to extreme temperatures and various things left on sidewalks. Using a moisturizer specific to a dog’s needs, will keep your doggo comfortable.

10 Foods that are Dangerous for Dogs

The best option is to refrain from giving our pups leftovers and samples from our plates as even the ingredients we don’t see can be life threatening. Choose healthy foods and treats for your dogs and keep a close eye on them when out walking or in dog parks.

We’ve all had that moment when we find our dog chewing on something that they picked up when we thought we were watching closely. They are fast and they smell things we can’t even see. That’s when you reach in and pull it out without even thinking of the potential repercussions of sticking your hand into a very well toothed mouth to take something that they want. You just do it, because you know that they may be consuming something dangerous. What we often don’t realize is that the foods we eat can be the most dangerous foods for dogs.

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Everyone knows not to give their dog chocolate, but what else should we avoid? How do these foods affect our doggo’s? What symptoms should we look for?

I am neither a veterinarian nor a medical professional. The information in this article has been researched and sourced at the end of the post. All medical issues or questions regarding your pet’s health or symptoms should always be brought to the attention of your veterinarian for clarification, assessment, advice and treatment.

Below is a list of 10 of the most dangerous foods for dogs, some symptoms to watch for and the potential outcome:

The best option is to refrain from giving our pups leftovers and samples from our plates. Even the ingredients we don’t see can be life threatening. Choose healthy foods and treats for your dogs and keep a close eye on them when out walking or in dog parks. You never know what other people have dropped or, sadly, intentionally left where dogs can swallow it.

WagWell Box

If you see any unusual symptoms, these or others, see a vet immediately as situations can escalate quickly.

Sources

https://www.petmd.com/dog/chocolate-toxicity

https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/people-foods-avoid-feeding-your-pets

https://www.vets-now.com/2017/01/foods-poisonous-to-dogs/

Collar vs. Harness – Protecting Your Dog’s Neck and Spine

There are many potential hazards associated with the pressure a collar places on a dog’s neck, throat and spine.

Wearing collars in the house:

Dog collars are great for attaching dog tags and licences to, but that is about it.  Many pet parents are unaware that puppies and dogs who spend time in crates while wearing regular collars are put in jeopardy every time you leave them unsupervised. There are thousands of cases annually where dogs have accidentally strangled or hung themselves by getting caught on the bars of the crate and were unable to wriggle themselves free. Choosing the safest dog collar or harness depends on your dog’s needs and habits.

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This can best be avoided by removing the collar altogether before entering the crate or pen. Another option is to use a break away collar. In the case of an emergency, the dog pulling to get loose will release the clasp on the collar and the dog will be free and safe. I actually experienced this recently with my cat. We came home to find that the cat had no collar on. It was several days before we found the collar. It was wrapped around the floor-level hooks on our coat rack. Had he not been wearing a break-away collar; he may not have survived. Because of this incident, he no longer wears a collar at all. It’s just too dangerous.

Wearing collars on a walk:

Collars were traditionally used to attach leashes to when walking your dog. We are now learning that there are many potential hazards associated with the pressure a collar places on a dog’s neck, throat and spine. If the dog walks easily beside you, and never pulls, there is little chance of damage. The likelihood that your dog never pulls for any reason, is very slim. If a dog sees a squirrel, another dog, a favorite person, if he gets startled or needs correcting, the leash will probably reach full tension. As soon as this happens pressure is placed on the dog’s neck. This is where the decision between dog collar or harness comes in.

Below the area of the neck where a standard collar rests on a dog’s neck is a thin layer of skin which covers the trachea, larynx, thyroid and cervical spine. When the dog pulls (or is pulled) the collar can place pressure on any of these areas causing permanent damage. Pressure on the neck can even result in damage to the eyes. Sometimes when I am walking, I see a dog who is pulling so hard on the leash that I can actually hear the dog struggling to breathe. I am not sure why they don’t stop pulling when this level of discomfort is reached. I don’t think that dogs have the mental capacity to logically associate that if they were to stop pulling it would make it easier to breathe.

Harness
If you use a well-fitting harness – one that rests below the neck and does not rub behind the front legs – your dog will be safe and comfortable.

Now that we know that, for most dogs, we probably don’t want to attach our dog’s leash to a collar, we have to choose an alternative. A shock collar is out of the question for me. Controlling a dog with pain is, in my opinion, cruel and inhumane. What’s the safest choice? A harness. If you use a well-fitting harness – one that rests below the neck and does not rub behind the front legs – your dog will be safe and comfortable.

A leash can be attached in two places on a harness. Some have the D-link on the back, allowing the leash to pull from behind. There is little control over pulling, jumping or for training purposes when attached in this location. For a trained dog, this provides a safe and comfortable option. Deciding on a harness with the D-link in the front at the chest level offers more control over the dog’s movements. When training this serves as a gentle reminder not to pull. The resistance comes from a place that does no physical damage at all to your dog. When training or when more control is desired, choose a harness that is reversible or has a D-link in both places .

When deciding whether to choose a dog collar or harness, please consider your doggo’s safety and comfort. They will protect us from anything. We should do the same for them.

Kennel Cough: Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention

Kennel Cough is very common and, once diagnosed by a professional, can be treated with the use pharmaceuticals, naturopathic methods or a combination of the two.

When your dog coughs a deep, honking, raspy sounding cough, it can be very concerning and even frightening. This sound could indicate Kennel Cough. Kennel Cough is very common and, once diagnosed by a professional, can be treated with the use pharmaceuticals, naturalistic methods or a combination of the two. Knowing the symptoms, treatment and prevention of Kennel cough will help your dog should he be exposed.

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What is Kennel Cough?

It is a contagious upper respiratory infection that can be brought on by both a virus or exposure to a bacterial infection. It can be airborne or spread through direct contact with, including licking and sniffing, an infected surface. The “honking” noise occurs when there is inflammation around the larynx.

NOTE: The effects of Kennel cough can be much more serious for a senior dog or a puppy as their immune systems are not as strong.

I am neither a veterinarian nor a medical professional. The information in this article has been researched and sourced at the end of the post if required. All safety and medical issues or questions regarding your pet’s health or symptoms should always be brought to the attention of your veterinarian for clarification, assessment, advice and treatment.

What are the symptoms of Kennel Cough?

Along with the nasty cough, there can be a number of other cold-like symptoms. Your doggo might sneeze or have a runny nose. He could also have runny eyes, a low-grade fever, lethargy and a reduced appetite. Basically, all the symptoms humans exhibit when they have a bad cold. If left untreated, the symptoms can become more severe and ultimately lead to pneumonia – or worse. These symptoms can last up to 7 weeks, even longer if it’s a puppy or a senior dog. Even after the symptoms have cleared, your dog can be a carrier for several weeks.

How is Kennel cough transmitted?

Kennel cough is generally spread in areas where multiple dogs gather. This includes doggy daycares, shelters, boarding locations and even dog parks. When a dog that is carrying the virus coughs or sneezes the germs are released into the air. Poor ventilation can cause the airborne particles to spread quickly from dog to dog. In the case of the dog park, from nose to nose contact.

Treating Kennel Cough

The pharmaceutical methods typically include antibiotics to clear the infection and veterinary cough medicine to ease the symptoms and make your dog comfortable. Some natural methods include using a humidifier, honey and chicken soup. A humidifier will moisturize the air which can help to reduce the dry cough. Honey has natural anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can help to treat the symptoms. The honey will also coat the throat, minimizing the irritation which lessens the desire to cough. Chicken soup, as with humans, can sooth the throat while helping to reinforce the immune system. (Please make the soup from scratch or use sodium-free packaged soup.)

Preventing Kennel Cough

Prevention is largely done by isolating the dogs that have been exposed to the virus. When selecting a daycare or boarding facility, do some investigating to be sure that they do not have a current outbreak and that they have proper ventilation to reduce the risk of transmission should one of the other dogs be a carrier. The Bordetella vaccine is available to help fight the bacteria that, combined with the virus, results in kennel cough. There are different ways of administering the vaccine; orally, through nose drops or by injection.

You should always discuss the best prevention and treatment options for your individual pet with your vet.

How to Keep Poop Bags Environmentally Friendly

Poop. It’s not the most pleasant topic, nor the most pleasant part of pet ownership, but it is the most common of the day to day pet parenting responsibilities, next to food.  We are responsible for piles and piles of poop. How do we clean it up? What happens if we don’t? Is there a way to keep our planet safe from doggo droppings? There are ways to help keep poop bags environmentally friendly.

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I work with many dogs of all shapes and sizes and I clean poop of all shapes and sizes. I also see that many people are doing their best to find the most ecologically friendly methods of disposing of it, and I often hear that there are not very many options.

Many poop bags, including some that can be purchased at the dollar store, claim to be biodegradable. I have learned that it is almost impossible for them to actually decompose due to the fact that they are compressed in the piles of garbage in the landfills and not exposed to the light and oxygen that is required to complete the decomposition process.

So, should we bury it? Use it for fertilizer?

No. These are also not an option as dog poop, unlike sheep or cow feces, contains bacteria such as E. coli and numerous parasites. As it decomposes, it can spread disease. If humans or dogs have access to it, they can become ill.

So, what can we do?

I try to limit the number of the bags I use. If one of my dog’s poops twice on the same walk, I use the same bag to clean up.  This helps to reduce the impact on landfills. In my own yard, I keep a compostable household bag on hand, and continue to fill it for 2 or 3 days before tossing it out, once again reducing the number of bags used. I, as well as the majority of my clients, try to choose poop bags that attempt to help the environment. I look for products that put forth an effort to have a more positive ecological effect, down to the smallest details. Clients, friends and family members have introduced me to many different types that claim to be biodegradable, but as stated above,  these can only be as effective as the landfill they are dropped in. Instead, I look for a product that is not made from plastic materials, and for those that use recyclable packaging and packaging made from recycled products. It’s also better to use reusable dispensers rather than disposable.

As of yet, there is no perfect method of poop disposal that I am aware of, but there are significantly better options to choose from, as well as methods of use and disposal that can reduce the risk of illness and negative environmental impact.

Please clean up after your pet responsibly.

How to Stop Puppies from Mouthing

Mouthing is a natural method used by puppies to learn about their surroundings. It is not generally a sign that the dog is aggressive and usually occurs when the puppy (or older dog if not addressed during puppy phase) is excited or overstimulated. In the wild, it is how they play with each other, and they eventually use it to defend themselves against predators. As puppies, mouthing is generally softer and without a lot of pressure, although those teeth can be really sharp! There are a number of ways to stop puppies from mouthing.

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Puppies mouth when excited or overstimulated.

Why do we want to discourage mouthing? For most pet owners, it is to be sure that the dog does not harm people or other animals. As the puppy gets older his mouthing pressure becomes stronger. Without the awareness that the more intense pressure can hurt, the dog may accidentally injure someone. The damage could be even worse if it is a small child or animal. It is because of this potential danger that many feel that it is important to discourage mouthing. But how does one go about that?

From what I have learned there are a variety of methods that can assist with discouraging mouthing, or at the very least, reduce the intensity of the pressure (known as bite inhibition). Here are a few that seem to be used most widely:

Yelping

One of the most widely used methods is to “yelp” when the dog mouths you. This imitates what would happen during an interaction with another dog during play. If a dog mouths too hard while playing with a buddy, the playmate would yelp and stop playing for a moment, alerting the mouther that the play was too rough. The play would then continue with the knowledge that there is a limit to the amount of pressure allowed. With a human interaction, when the puppy mouths on someone’s hand the human should yelp and then completely relax their hand to make it clear that the pressure was too much and not enjoyable. Wait a few moments and then continue play. This should be repeated until the connection between mouthing pressure and yelping is made and the puppy exercises self-control.

Time-Out

Some prefer to simply stop playing with the dog when mouthing occurs. With this method the human who is mouthed while engaged in play stops playing and briefly (a few seconds) turns their back to the puppy. Play then resumes until the puppy mouths again, and then another time-out occurs. This sends the message that mouthing ends play. Eventually, the pup will make the connection and will refrain from mouthing.

Substitution:
Substitute a toy when a puppy/dog begins mouthing.

When a puppy begins to mouth immediately provide a safe chew toy for him to chew on. By substituting the toy, the puppy knows that it is OK to chew on the toy, but that the hand will be removed.

Redirection

When a puppy is becoming excited or play is escalating, use a command that the puppy is already familiar with i.e. “sit”. By redirecting the puppy to perform an already familiar task the level of excitement will be reduced and focus will be changed to the task at hand.

With any of these methods, it is recommended that you acknowledge any indication that your puppy has understood what you are trying to teach. Some indicators would be beginning to mouth but then pulling away on their own, licking instead of mouthing or sitting when it seems that excitement is escalating. Praise and treats to congratulate achievements using any of these methods will encourage the puppy to continue to exercise self-restraint when they feel the urge to mouth.

NOTE: These methods can be used for older dogs as well, but because they don’t react to new direction as quickly as a puppy does, it will take longer for the process to become effective. Patience and perseverance will prove successful.

Dogs and Salt Water

A day at the beach can be fun for the whole family, even our canine members, but it is important to know the potential dangers that can be encountered and how to prevent them.

I recently heard that salt water was bad for my dog, but why? I decided to look into the dangers of dogs ingesting salt water before my next trip to the East Coast. Here is what my research found.

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If carefully monitored, a day at the beach can be fun for the whole family, even our canine members, but it is important to know the potential dangers that can be encountered and how to prevent them.

Dogs tend to drink any water they come in contact with – puddles, spills, pools…. toilets! There are no boundaries. Can you imagine how exciting a whole ocean would look? It could be a drinking frenzy!

I am neither a veterinarian nor a medical professional. The information in this article has been researched and sourced at the end of the post. All medical issues or questions regarding your pet’s health or symptoms should always be brought to the attention of your veterinarian for clarification, assessment, advice and treatment.

Dog swimming while dragging a large stick.
Playing fetch at the beach can cause a
dog to ingest salt water.
Photo by: M. Shea

Unfortunately, this source of water can be very harmful and even fatal for a dog. The salt from the ocean water causes the dog to become dehydrated, as it causes osmosis in the body. This means that the liquid is drawn away from the salt water while in the body and it is absorbed into the intestinal tract leaving more salt to be digested. As with humans (and worse for dogs) salt causes dehydration. The second effect of the osmosis is that it leaves too much fluid in the intestines, which leads to diarrhea. What happens when anyone suffers from diarrhea?? More dehydration. So there you have it, a double whammy.

Keeping the beach safe:

It’s very important to be sure your dog is provided with ample shade and fresh, clean water at regular intervals every day, but while at the beach it is imperative. Dogs get hot in the sun and lose moisture. If there is not a bowl readily available, the dog will resort to drinking from the beach. If your pal is not thirsty, this is not as inviting.

So now you have provided shade and a bowl of a water safe fetch toy or object is an important part of reducing the risk of dogs ingesting salt water. If a tennis ball or other toy that can absorb water is used, and your dog brings it back in in his mouth, the water is being squeezed out of the toy and swallowed. Make sure to choose a solid toy to avoid consuming water as much as possible.

Sand can also be a problem. If enough is ingested, sand can occasionally become stuck in the intestines, causing blockage. Make sure that all food, water and toys are relatively sand free.

When you get home:

Finally, you should always rinse your dog with clean water after a day at the beach to remove and residual sand and salt water. If to much salt remains it can cause the skin to dry, flake and itch.

It is also important to carefully clean all water and debris from your dog’s ears to avoid an ear infection.

If your dog shows any symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, groggy behavior or bloating, head shaking or ear pain after a day at the beach, it would be wise to seek a veterinary attention immediately.

Sources:

Keeping Pets Safe and Happy on Halloween

Keeping pets safe at Halloween includes decorating, trick or treating, candy care and cleaning up at the end of the night.

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Halloween can be great fun for children and adults alike. Unfortunately, it can also be a great source of stress and danger for your pet. It is important that we be aware of the issues that pets are presented with. We need to take the proper steps toward keeping pets safe and happy on Halloween night. In the weeks before Halloween I see many of my doggy clients reacting to decorations by cowering and hiding behind me. Some whimper or bark at the decorations in the neighborhood. I try to find alternate routes for our walks where there are no decorations or where they are more subtle. This is an indication that Halloween night will not be fun for your doggo.

I am neither a veterinarian nor a medical professional. The information in this article has been researched and sourced at the end of the post if required. All safety and medical issues or questions regarding your pet’s health or symptoms should always be brought to the attention of your veterinarian for clarification, assessment, advice and treatment.

Taking Your Dog Out Trick or Treating

Taking your pet out with your family as you trick or treat may be a very unpleasant experience for them. If your pet shows signs of discomfort within the first few houses, it would be best to return home and let him stay in while you head out for an evening of fun and excitement. When a dog has already shown signs of discomfort with houses that have been decorated, as my clients have, it will only be intensified when the ghoulish sounds and loud music, lights and noises emanate from the amazing creations that some people construct at their homes.

Keeping My Dog From Being Afraid at Home on Halloween

Nervous looking black cat
Keeping pets safe and happy on Halloween includes decorating, trick or treating, candy care and cleaning up at the end of the night.

If you are just staying home a shelling out candy, your pet can still be affected by the activity. Even the most well-trained pup can become stressed and react in an unusual manner. They may become afraid and run out the door when you open it to greet the trick or treaters. Others may become aggressive and possibly bite when confronted with scary costumes. Flashing lights that are used for child safety can also cause a negative reaction. Because of this, it is best to keep all of your pets, confined to a quiet area where they will not be exposed to the door or able to escape. They will feel more secure and guests will be safe as well. Also, be sure that you have a collar with contact information and ID on your pet and/or have them micro chipped, just in case.

Keeping Your Dogs Away from Halloween Candy

At the end of a very exciting night, it is common to pour out the contents of the candy bag to see all of the goodies you have received. As many of these treats can be poisonous to dogs, especially chocolate, it is important that you sort your candy on a table. Use a large bowl or basin to avoid dropping it on the floor. Pups are quick and will quickly scoop up any droppings. Perhaps you could offer some healthy dog treats so that your furry friend can join in on the fun! All candy should be stored away from the reach of little paws to ensure ongoing safety.

Clean Up All Halloween Decorations to Keep Your Dog Safe

When the costumes are removed and the glow sticks come off, be sure that any small pieces are put away. Glow sticks are poisonous and should be safely disposed of.

Halloween is supposed to be a fun and exciting time for families. By keeping these safety tips in mind, you can be sure that everyone will able to enjoy the evening.